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The Pre-Ride Inspection: A Modern T-CLOCS Checklist for Every Rider

·10 min read

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation's T-CLOCS check has been around for decades because it works. Riders who do a 2-minute walkaround before every ride catch nearly all the mechanical problems that turn into roadside failures — flat tires, dragging brakes, snapped clutch cables, forgotten disc locks. Here's the modern version.

T-CLOCS, updated for modern bikes

The mnemonic stands for Tires, Controls, Lights, Oil, Chassis, Stands. Do it in that order every time and it becomes muscle memory.

T — Tires and wheels

  • Pressure at least by feel (kick a tire) — do a proper cold-gauge check weekly.
  • Scan tread for embedded screws, cuts, and bulges. A screw head in the tread is a slow leak waiting to strand you.
  • Look for wet oily film on the rim (leaking fork seal) or brake dust caking (dragging caliper).
  • Spin each wheel — listen for grinding bearings.

C — Controls

  • Squeeze the front brake lever and hold. Should stay firm, not slowly creep to the bar.
  • Pull the clutch. Freeplay should be 2–4 mm at the lever; if it's on the bar the cable or hydraulic system is failing.
  • Roll the throttle open with the bars at full lock left and right. It must snap closed on its own with no binding — a stuck throttle at speed is genuinely dangerous.
  • Blip both brakes and check for firmness and even bite.

L — Lights and electrics

  • Headlight low and high beam.
  • Brake light on both front and rear activation.
  • Turn signals all four corners.
  • Horn.
  • Dash warning lights extinguish after start.

O — Oil and fluids

  • Engine oil in the sight glass or on the dipstick — do this with the bike upright, not on the side stand, or you'll misread.
  • Coolant expansion tank between MIN and MAX.
  • Front and rear brake fluid reservoirs above MIN.
  • Scan for wet spots under the bike where it was parked. A single drop is worth investigating.

C — Chassis

  • Chain tension in spec (usually 25–35 mm of freeplay). Lube if it looks dry or rusty.
  • Chain adjuster marks equal on both sides of the swingarm.
  • Push down on the seat and let go — the bike should rebound once smoothly, not pogo or stay compressed.
  • Check all luggage straps and top-case latches.

S — Stands

  • Side stand extends and retracts smoothly, spring holds it up.
  • Kill switch works — trip it during warm-up to confirm.
  • Disc lock, alarm and any anti-theft device removed. Riding off with a disc lock still fitted is one of the most common (and expensive) rider mistakes.

The 30-second daily version

For the daily commute, the full T-CLOCS is overkill. Do this every day and the full check on weekend rides:

  1. Walk around the bike once. Look for anything on the ground under it, and anything hanging off the bike that shouldn't be.
  2. Squeeze both brake levers — they should feel firm.
  3. Confirm the disc lock is off and the fuel is on (if you have a manual petcock).
  4. Start the bike, wait for the oil light to go out and for warning lights to clear, then check mirrors are aimed right.

Printable checklist

Print the T-CLOCS list and tape it inside your garage door for the first month. After 30 days it's habit and you won't need it.

Logging with MotoCare

MotoCare's dashboard shows the next 3 due services at a glance, so your pre-ride check can include a "what's due?" glance at your phone. Chain, oil, tires, brake fluid — all in one place. Try MotoCare free.